• Break: HB Pier, Southside
• Board: Junod
• Waves: 2-4
• Water Temp: 58
• Weather: Sunny, pleasant
• Surf Session: Decent

Today’s session was the best since the rains. That’s not to say it was great, just better. The waves were breaking in more than just the one spot off the pier, but the first break was were the size and power was. So once again, every surfer waited and fought and scrapped for the bigger set waves just 100 yards south of the pier.

While in the maw of dudes (no ladies today), I did pick off one humdinger of a right. I just slalomed through the traffic all the way to the beach.  Nice, long, carving turns pre-planned to guide me around the insiders, scrappers and groms.  This was the first real test I had of the new Joe Aaron JM Fin on the Junod. After trying out three different fins on that board, I’ve found the perfect match.  Shane over at Harbour recommended the fin to me.  It’s super flexy and tapers at the base to give it a glassed-on feel.  And I’ll tell you what, my humdinger right felt so smooth, like I was riding on a board of butter.  Looking forward to bigger, stronger waves to really try and uncork the potential of this fin/board combo or wipeout trying.  (Most likely the latter.)

• Break: Sunset Blvd
• Board: Kruisechev
• Waves: 2s -3s
• Water Temp: 59
• Weather: 65
• Surf Session: Fun

Peter and I met up for a Dawn Patrol sesh at Sunset Blvd.  It was my first time out since all of the rain so I was looking for a pretty mellow morning, and that is exactly what we got.  The crowd was small and we had plenty of room to move around.  The waves were mostly 2’s and 3’s, slightly textured.  Every 20 – 25 minutes  a nice set of chest high waves would roll through.  In between the sets was a pretty fruitless lull period where we would chase down tiny bumps and try to get into them.  I had a watch on so I timed the sets and I would paddle right into the sweet spot right before the waves would come in.  That strategy paid off and I got a set wave every time….Nice long rights.  I was riding my trusty single fin red log Kruisechev and that board lived up to its name. Kruising, trimming….. Good times this morning.  Everyone had a smile, it was a totally chill morning.

Some pictures

• Break: HB Pier, Southside
• Board: Junod
• Waves: 2-4
• Water Temp: 58
• Weather: Light overcast, warm
• Surf Session: Meh

Once again I took my Junod out with its new fin, but still no love from the waves. They had size, but no umph. Even the best looking waves refused to pitch over and lumped out just when it seemed like they were ready to ride. What made it even more tough was that the swell was only breaking in one specific spot south of the pier. Usually it breaks every 100 yards or so. But today just one spot, and so everyone packed tightly into the hot zone. We all scraped for the bumps that came our way, but no one caught much. And when we did catch waves, they petered out pretty quick. One nice set came through in the two hours I was out. I was lucky enough to be one of the few in the right position. But over all it was pretty disappointing. But at least I am lucky enough to paddle out.

• Break: HB Pier, Northside
• Board: Junod
• Waves: 3-5
• Water Temp: 59
• Weather: Sun, light breeze
• Surf Session: Meh

I’ve been land-lubbin’ for quite some time due to rain and runoff.  Today was the first all-clear since we went out two Sundays ago when I took my new fish out for the first time.  Actually yesterday was the all-clear, but I tried to wait out the tide and before I made my move the wind came up and blew everything out.

As it always seems to be after a long dry spell, the forecast was for massive 5-8′ waves of “good” quality.  But that wasn’t quite the case today.  The waves were more like 3-5 in the “poor” range.  They’d start forming far on the outside and sort of break, then reform, then sort of break, then reform again into an evil head-high barrel breaking right on the sand.  Courage and skill were the words of the day if you wanted those inside tubes.  Otherwise we had to content ourselves with very short rides on the outer breaks.  Maybe that’s just the frustration talking, but I didn’t make much out of the day.  But at least I got to paddle out today.

Jaws is a legendary wave on the north shore of Maui. Home of tow-in surfing. Wave faces up to 70′ tall. Elusive.

This past December, the conditions lined up as a mammoth swell passed through the islands, producing amazing sets of monster waves. The world watched as top surfers braved fast, steep faces. Everyone has been talking about the unbelievable runs that were pulled off.

Here are the runs that didn’t work out so well.