Stole a quick hour to paddle out and catch some waves. Still have a lot of work to do today, so I forewent video and pics (sorry) to help save time. What a fun little day it was. The waves were great 2-3s with some bigger set waves on occasion. The water was clear, the sun was out and the breeze was ever so slight. I still manage wind up in the sand more times than not, but was mostly my doing. For some reason, I have been adamant about staying up until either a) the wave peters out or b) the wave ejects me. The petering out is tame enough obviously, but the ejections are taking a toll (e.g. my torn suit last week). It’s definitely made from some thrilling moments in the last few weeks. I’m not 100% about my reasoning for this new rule, but I’m guessing my thinking is that if I keep forcing myself into those critical situation, eventually it will make me a better surfer. But much like when I started surfing, it’s only resulting in wipeouts thus far. Though I have some momentary barrels before the wave exacts it vengeance on me, so that’s promising.
By :
In : Surf Sessions
On : 27 Aug 2010
Tags: Atlas Sound, Episode, Video
- El Porto
- Pepito
- 2-3+
- 62
- Foggy, overcast
- Fun
The tide and the Dawn Patrol are swinging out of sync again. Aaron and I paddled out early and were able to snag a high wave count before the tide elevated and the crowds arrived. The early waves were fun, a little slow, but otherwise good size and length. Aaron and I barely had time to catch up on conversation because one of us was always catching a wave or paddling back.
But once the tide started rising, the break moved closer to shore and stared closing out. They were the mean little waves too. You either just eeked through or got eaten up. Saw lots of people doing headers, face plants and going over the falls. (Personally, I ate it every which way.)
I did have a chance to test out my new fins and my new wetsuit again (both with reviews to come). Fins are promising and wetsuit is still totally worth the money. Even with the short sleeves I was crazy comfortable today. At one point I paddled over to Aaron (who was in a full suit) to ask, “Is it just me or is the water finally getting warmer?” But before I got the words out Aaron said, “Man, it’s extra cold today.” Go Patagonia wetsuit.
Support the band and buy the song:
Artist: Atlas Sound
Album: Logos
Song: Walkabout [w/ Noah Lennox]
By :
In : General
On : 25 Aug 2010
Tags: Big, Huntington, Pier, Video
I packed up my camera & tripod, suited up and took my board down to the pier today. My intent was to get some footage of the apex of the south swell rolling through, then paddle out myself. But I was surprised to only find 3 dudes out in the water when I arrived. I’d never seen Huntington so empty of surfers. And after watching the waves for a bit I could see why – the waves were choppy, sectiony and mean. So not only were they difficult to negotiate, they were big, strong and unforgiving. I took a bit of footage from the pier then headed down to the beach to paddle out. But at beach level I saw some firemen and lifeguards tending to a guy I’d seen eat it earlier. He looked pretty beat up. No one in the water + surfer requiring medical attention + no buddy for buddy-system = lay day. Here’s a quick minute of the footage I picked up:
I’d gone up to Harbour Surf Shop to see about getting O’Neill to repair my torn wetsuit. Probably they will, but the catch is that my suit will be in the shop for 4 weeks or so. With the water temps in the mid 50s I was not too keen on sending it off. But, with the air temp being as high as it has been these last few weeks, I’d been fancying a full/short sleeve suit. 
And what should Harbour have at 40% off today? Why, Patagonia R2
Having purchased the new suit I was forced to try it out immediately. Forced! Luckily I happen to have my board in the car anyway, so I meandered down to Crabs in Seal Beach, which I’d heard about but never surfed before. It was a nice spot. There was lots of room, several breaks to pick from and the crowds were minimal. Its only drawback is that it sits right at the San Gabriel rivermouth. As such, it is out of commission anytime there is a runoff situation. But in the summertime with no rain and a south swell, it is a sweet spot. I paddled around to each of the various peaks and tried them all out. Best of all I was crazy comfy in my new wool-lined wetsuit. It’s like being wrapped in a flexible blanket!
(I don’t know how much longer the 40% off lasts at Harbour, but based on what I’ve experienced with the suit so far, it is a smashing deal.)
- Beach Bowls
- Pepito
- 4-6+
- 57
- Sunny, gorgeous
- Fun
Oh how things can change when you are gone for a few days. I was camping with my family this weekend (awesome). When I left on Friday the waves were waist-high at best. Today they were waist-high at worst. Today’s sets came in easily at the shoulder-to-head range and were often overhead. The forecast indicates this swell is going to build over the next few days. But anything more that what I was in today, and I’m going to have to use the buddy-system out there.
Most of my rides were in the “hold on!” category with the wave in total control. But I did get one superb right that went all the way to the beach (where I paid the price for riding it all the way in). I was just gliding up and down, up and down, just having a grand ol’ time until I realizes the beach was nigh and I had no exit plan. But it was totally worth it.
Bummer news from the day: my wetsuit finally gave up the ghost. It’d been starting to fray as some of the seem junctions, but today one of them burst open. With the water being as cold as it is, I don’t know how much longer I’m going to be able to tough it out now with all that arctic freeze rushing in at every seem.
Carver Surfboard Bike Racks - Mini - Fits boards up to 8' 0"
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