Riding Giants will go down in history as one of the great surf films. Often I’ll watch a surf movie, pick up some pointers and then take those new ideas to the beach to test them out.  But in Riding Giants, those surfers are so far beyond my ability, so far beyond even my aspirations [...]

Remember that morning you were the first to paddle out, the sun was just popping up over the horizon, the water was glassy and the waves couldn’t have been any better?  Oh, those glorious dawn patrols.  Those are the days we spend an extra hour or two out in the break, job be damned.  But [...]

One California Day comes from the dudes who gave us Singlefin: yellow. One California Day is a look at different bits of Californian coast, “capturing the California surfing experience through the surfers who live it.” One thing that makes this film great is that it explores time, personalities, locales and history in the context of [...]

When I am passionate about anything, like surfing, I always find it’s important to learn about its history.  What did it take for this to come to me?  Like any sport, surfing has many pivotal moments throughout it’s history where dynamic shifts occurred and myths are broken.  One such moment was the winters of 1975-77.  [...]

It was another stunning day at Huntington Beach. The swell was supposed to have passed by now, but Poseidon was happy and graced us with an extra day. I mean to tell you the waves were shoulder to high high, sometimes overhead, the shape of the waves were perfect A-frames, easy to take off on, [...]

Greetings fellow surfers and ocean aficionados, We’ve finally reached the point in the site where most of our Phase 1 goals (make the site) are complete.  Now we are moving on to our list of Phase 2 items (make the site awesome).  First on that list was getting the RSS feed set up properly.  And [...]

Peter and I met up for an early morning sesh at Porto.  It was a pretty nice morning.  It was sunny, warm, and conditions were good.  Clean, mostly 3s and 4s with some smaller waves.  Low tide was at 6:45, so when we first got out it was walled, with a fair amount of close [...]

It was a great surf session for me today.  Unfortunately, it wasn’t quite so for Donnie.  Somehow we were on very different wavelengths.  Poor Donnie just couldn’t sync up with the ocean.  Worse still, it was clear to him that I was in the zone.  I did my best not to hoot and holler too [...]

Finally getting myself back into the swing of the work week after being on glorious holiday for two weeks.  After working all day and staring at the computer screen my brain was mush and my eyes were burning, so I decided to cut out and head to the beach for a bit of surf meditation. [...]

Saturday morning was sort of a rough and tumble sesh at El Porto.  There was serious wind kicking up some chop, and really strong current that we were battling all morning.  We got some sweet rides, and that was all good, but what I really wanted to report about was the dead freaking goat on [...]

Brandon, Donnie and I hedged all our bets today in the hopes of finding more than the recent 1-2s.  As I’m sure you know all the reports are indicating that we are going to get some of the good stuff this weekend.  All the sites predicted “hints” of the coming swell over the course of [...]

El Porto Thursdays?  Due to scheduling, we had to move up this week’s El Porto Friday a day.  Lucky for you, it was a raging one to tow feet out there and we had the video camera.  Forget, Riding Giants and all that other big wave hooha, this is the future of surfing. There wasn’t [...]

I was just re-watching A Broke Down Melody, a film by Chris and Emmet Malloy, again.  What struck me this time was just how vibrant this film always seems to me.  All the colors, especially the blues, seems a bit richer and all the smiles seem a bit bigger. The film is full of positivity [...]

Ah, Trestles.  Surely one of the finest breaks in the world.  With the ASP World Tour getting ready to descend on Trestles next month, it’s worth asking: What’s the best break at Trestles?

I totally swam with manatees. Dude, let me tell you, it was awesome and surreal.  It is completely in the wild, not a tank or enclosed area, so even seeing a manatee, let alone swimming with one, is not a guaranteed or even a likely scenario.  Worst still, summer is the low season for manatee [...]