Another sluggish, lumpy surf day.  BUT we did have an actual El Porto Friday with Josh, Mike and Uzair.  So, no matter what the waves were like it was great to get out with buds and made for a fun surf session. After the surf session, Mike and I clowned around with various cameras and [...]

Same waves today as yesterday – sluggish shoulder-high swells that refused to pitch over.  On very rare occasions the some lovely peaks would appear, but they’d peter out just as fast as they built up.  I only saw one guy ride a wave all the way from the outer break to the shore.  We all [...]

The big swell has left us, leaving sizable waves that lack the impetus to pitch over. The waves would build to the tipping point, then ebb, then build again and finally break on the inside. But every so often, a great set would come and break on the outside. But by the time that set [...]

Yet another day of terrific, chunky bombs out there.  Caught a few more exhilarating overhead waves.  I decided to take the Doug Haut out today to continue riding a different board each day of this swell.  My Haut is the only thruster I own.  I always have a hard time adjusting to three fins.  It [...]

This surf session was fraught with bomb waves, but one in particular was stellar.  I took the Junod out today having learned from yesterday that a longer board doesn’t ease the paddle on a big day.  And today was especially big – most waves coming in well overhead.  Nearly every wave that came in was [...]

It was a long, long dryspell – about 11 days by my counting. Today finally presented the all clear and the time to hit the waves.  I took the Quatro out thinking that would help ease the paddle out.  (Once again I was remiss to keep up with some arm exercises during the lay days.)  [...]

Today’s session was the best since the rains. That’s not to say it was great, just better. The waves were breaking in more than just the one spot off the pier, but the first break was were the size and power was. So once again, every surfer waited and fought and scrapped for the bigger [...]

Peter and I met up for a Dawn Patrol sesh at Sunset Blvd.  It was my first time out since all of the rain so I was looking for a pretty mellow morning, and that is exactly what we got.  The crowd was small and we had plenty of room to move around.  The waves [...]

Once again I took my Junod out with its new fin, but still no love from the waves. They had size, but no umph. Even the best looking waves refused to pitch over and lumped out just when it seemed like they were ready to ride. What made it even more tough was that the [...]