Another sluggish, lumpy surf day.  BUT we did have an actual El Porto Friday with Josh, Mike and Uzair.  So, no matter what the waves were like it was great to get out with buds and made for a fun surf session.
After the surf session, Mike and I clowned around with various cameras and his [...]

Same waves today as yesterday – sluggish shoulder-high swells that refused to pitch over.  On very rare occasions the some lovely peaks would appear, but they’d peter out just as fast as they built up.  I only saw one guy ride a wave all the way from the outer break to the shore.  We all [...]

The big swell has left us, leaving sizable waves that lack the impetus to pitch over. The waves would build to the tipping point, then ebb, then build again and finally break on the inside. But every so often, a great set would come and break on the outside. But by the [...]

Yet another day of terrific, chunky bombs out there.  Caught a few more exhilarating overhead waves.  I decided to take the Doug Haut out today to continue riding a different board each day of this swell.  My Haut is the only thruster I own.  I always have a hard time adjusting to three fins.  It [...]

This surf session was fraught with bomb waves, but one in particular was stellar.  I took the Junod out today having learned from yesterday that a longer board doesn’t ease the paddle on a big day.  And today was especially big – most waves coming in well overhead.  Nearly every wave that came in was [...]