Another sluggish, lumpy surf day.  BUT we did have an actual El Porto Friday with Josh, Mike and Uzair.  So, no matter what the waves were like it was great to get out with buds and made for a fun surf session.
After the surf session, Mike and I clowned around with various cameras and his [...]

Same waves today as yesterday – sluggish shoulder-high swells that refused to pitch over.  On very rare occasions the some lovely peaks would appear, but they’d peter out just as fast as they built up.  I only saw one guy ride a wave all the way from the outer break to the shore.  We all [...]

The big swell has left us, leaving sizable waves that lack the impetus to pitch over. The waves would build to the tipping point, then ebb, then build again and finally break on the inside. But every so often, a great set would come and break on the outside. But by the [...]

Yet another day of terrific, chunky bombs out there.  Caught a few more exhilarating overhead waves.  I decided to take the Doug Haut out today to continue riding a different board each day of this swell.  My Haut is the only thruster I own.  I always have a hard time adjusting to three fins.  It [...]

This surf session was fraught with bomb waves, but one in particular was stellar.  I took the Junod out today having learned from yesterday that a longer board doesn’t ease the paddle on a big day.  And today was especially big – most waves coming in well overhead.  Nearly every wave that came in was [...]

It was a long, long dryspell – about 11 days by my counting. Today finally presented the all clear and the time to hit the waves.  I took the Quatro out thinking that would help ease the paddle out.  (Once again I was remiss to keep up with some arm exercises during the lay [...]

Today’s session was the best since the rains. That’s not to say it was great, just better. The waves were breaking in more than just the one spot off the pier, but the first break was were the size and power was. So once again, every surfer waited and fought and scrapped [...]

Peter and I met up for a Dawn Patrol sesh at Sunset Blvd.  It was my first time out since all of the rain so I was looking for a pretty mellow morning, and that is exactly what we got.  The crowd was small and we had plenty of room to move around.  The waves [...]

Once again I took my Junod out with its new fin, but still no love from the waves. They had size, but no umph. Even the best looking waves refused to pitch over and lumped out just when it seemed like they were ready to ride. What made it even more tough [...]

I’ve been land-lubbin’ for quite some time due to rain and runoff.  Today was the first all-clear since we went out two Sundays ago when I took my new fish out for the first time.  Actually yesterday was the all-clear, but I tried to wait out the tide and before I made my move the [...]

Jaws is a legendary wave on the north shore of Maui. Home of tow-in surfing. Wave faces up to 70′ tall. Elusive.
This past December, the conditions lined up as a mammoth swell passed through the islands, producing amazing sets of monster waves. The world watched as top surfers braved fast, steep faces. Everyone has been [...]

Peter, Tracy, Aaron and I paddle out at Bolsa Chica this morning.  It was new board Sunday!  Aaron was taking out is new Sea Nymph, I took out my new Harbour Fish (which I still haven’t told you about), Tracy took out is Dan-O (nothing new there, sorry), and Thunderlips took out is self-built board [...]

NEW VIDEO!  I know, I know.  You thought we reached episode 13 and were cursed.  Wrong, scurvy dogs.  We just got delayed by rain and holidays.  But I am happy to bring you EPF Episode 14: The Maiden Voyage of the Sea Nymph.
Aaron recently found a sweet Harbour Banana 40th Anniversary board on Craiglist; this [...]

Oh, man.  I did not recapture yesterday’s glory.  I think I was still too pooped from the marathon session Josh, Uzair and I had.  I started out just south of the pier and right from the get-go my shoulders started burning.  And by the time I was right in the drop zone, I was out [...]

How to even find the words to describe today’s surf session?  It was easily one of the best sessions I’ve ever had.  I was trying to remember other sessions that could compare.  (Two came to mind: 1. the super foggy day at el porto a few months ago and 2. a trip Josh and I [...]