There’s not even a proper way to describe the surf session we had yesterday.  It was too good.  Some of the Portoers came down to Huntington to try out my special spot.  The weather was perfect, waves were perfect…  It was like we we were making a surf film.  Like some company had been waiting [...]

Tide times are not coinciding with dawn patrolling and lunch breaking.  So I tried to wait out the high tide a few hours. Before I went out there was another surfer standing on the beach stretching.  When I walked near he said, “I’ve seen worse.”  I added, “even the worst day is better than living [...]

Those were 70s waves out there today.  The kind you see in all the classic surf films from that era.  And I would have done well to bring the Revolver instead of the Electric.  Mind you the electric was superb, but the Revolver would have paddled in better and made those stylish sweeping turns that [...]

After work yesterday, I packed up my bike and headed down to Beach Bowls for a sunset surf session.  Jack Lordy that water was deliciously warm.  The thermometer on my watch read 76ºF!  My brain was telling me that couldn’t be right, and it could have been taking some heat off my wrist, but it [...]

Finally getting myself back into the swing of the work week after being on glorious holiday for two weeks.  After working all day and staring at the computer screen my brain was mush and my eyes were burning, so I decided to cut out and head to the beach for a bit of surf meditation.
Most [...]

It is like a good soap opera out there. The swell continues to build from yesterday. Today the waves were 2-4s with the occasional head-high wave. I tried waiting for mid-tide today, but that didn’t seem to help much. Most waves were sectiony close-outs. All I really got out of [...]