I hadn’t really planned on going out today, being the day after Thanksgiving and all.  But Josh called around 10 and asked if I’d been out yet since the swell picked up.  Honestly, I had no idea such a big swell was coming through.  With being on vacation and Thanksgiving, the surf reports were way [...]

Peter and I met up for an early morning sesh at Porto.  It was a pretty nice morning.  It was sunny, warm, and conditions were good.  Clean, mostly 3s and 4s with some smaller waves.  Low tide was at 6:45, so when we first got out it was walled, with a fair amount of close [...]

Peter and I set out for a Dawn Patrol sesh at Sunset Blvd this morning.  We got there at 5:30 just in time for the -2 ft low-tide but there was nothing to ride.  Just tiny waves breaking right on the beach.  We decided to pull stakes and take our chances at Venice.  There was [...]

It is like a good soap opera out there. The swell continues to build from yesterday. Today the waves were 2-4s with the occasional head-high wave. I tried waiting for mid-tide today, but that didn’t seem to help much. Most waves were sectiony close-outs. All I really got out of [...]

We finally got out to El Porto on a Friday today!  Though we were down by a Swayze – we were sans Josh.  Still Aaron and I braved the ocean without The Chicken Dancer.  As El Porto can often decieve, the waves looked pretty mediocre from the parking lot.  Once we were out in the [...]