How to even find the words to describe today’s surf session?  It was easily one of the best sessions I’ve ever had.  I was trying to remember other sessions that could compare.  (Two came to mind: 1. the super foggy day at el porto a few months ago and 2. a trip Josh and I [...]

I know I keep saying that every day is epic lately, but today was an A+.  The wave size and shape was great (not stellar, but great).  There were some straight up close outs, but close outs weren’t the majority and when you did lock into a line, it was a fast, super charged ride [...]

Yet another day of weakish waves.  We had a fun crew today, and we spent most of our time goofing off in the water and talking about wizards… We were also trying to beat each other into 1 and 2 ft waves.  Clean conditions, but small and weak.  As the tide dropped we managed to [...]

The ankle-biters were snappin’ like catfish today. And the waves that did have some “size” to them tended to close out before they began.  Due to the poor forecast we were down to the core Portoers (Highlighters), just Aaron, Josh and me. Still the water was warm so were were all out in trunks, which [...]

Donnie and I went out to the same spot at the same time today to try and recapture yesterday’s glory.  Although I was too lazy to fix the leash on my shortboard, so I took out the Quatro. It was a bit more sectiony today than yesterday.  So the rides weren’t quite as long, but [...]

Donnie just got back from Maui and called me wanting to jump back into the water. I was in. But most of today’s adventure happened before we even got into the water (which was cold!). First while packing up the boards in Donnie’s truck the bungee cord slipped and clanged off the rail on my [...]