Those were 70s waves out there today.  The kind you see in all the classic surf films from that era.  And I would have done well to bring the Revolver instead of the Electric.  Mind you the electric was superb, but the Revolver would have paddled in better and made those stylish sweeping turns that [...]

There were rumors buzzing on the Internets last night that some Portoers were thinking of assaulting the beaches of El Porto in a dawn patrol this morning.  Having to hear about how great it was on Tuesday, I was not about to miss out again, so I headed up to meet the bros.  Everyone had [...]

There were no buds with me, so my surf session was not as awesome as the rest of the crew had at Porto today, but it was still fun.  And today I made the conscious decision to not bring any media equipment with me today.  No pictures, no video – just surfing. I took the [...]

It was another stunning day at Huntington Beach. The swell was supposed to have passed by now, but Poseidon was happy and graced us with an extra day. I mean to tell you the waves were shoulder to high high, sometimes overhead, the shape of the waves were perfect A-frames, easy to take off on, [...]

It was a great surf session for me today.  Unfortunately, it wasn’t quite so for Donnie.  Somehow we were on very different wavelengths.  Poor Donnie just couldn’t sync up with the ocean.  Worse still, it was clear to him that I was in the zone.  I did my best not to hoot and holler too [...]

Today was not yesterday. The water had sand churned into it and no longer had the clarity of yore.  The water also had these disagreeable frigid patches I kept passing through.  The chop was way up on the Richter scale and the waves had dropped in size and strength.  And there were jackals swarming the [...]

With the shine and glory of the US Open still washing over me, I headed out to the northside of the pier in Huntington today to try and push myself to the next level.  Granted, the waves were half as high and the rip tide had ebbed off to nothing, but still…NEXT LEVEL, I SAY. [...]

The was not the 4-7 we were hoping for.  For the most part the waves were 3-5, which would have been nice on a normal day. But because the forecast for huge surf the line up was super crowded and every wave was a scrapfest.  The best waves I caught were in the wee hours [...]

Originally I had gone down to the pier to take some photos of Kelly Slater in his first heat at the US Open. (Keep track of the heats here.  Live video coming on Thursday.)  But then a wicked fog bank rolled in and the competitions got stalled.  I waited for it to lift for a [...]

I’ve been jealous of Josh’s Harbour Electric (the orange board you often see Josh on in the pictures).  So I had my own made for me.  I was driving home from El Porto last Friday when Harbour called and said my board was ready for pick up!  Oh joyous day when you get to pick [...]

Donnie and I have set into a habit of going surfing everyday at 10.30.  But over the last few days as the swell has dropped and dropped, we’ve gravitated closer and closer to the pier.  (Today was a far cry from the 5 footers plus we were tangling with last week.)  We stared at the [...]

The forecast called for 2-3 with some 4s today.  And I’ll admit the waves were indeed 2 to 3 feet with the occasional 4 footer rolling through.  But the wave today and no zest, no zip, no umph.  There was nothing behind them.  Donnie and I went out in the hopes that we’d find something, [...]

The surf report didn’t inspire much hope this morning.  And being there on the beach didn’t make the desire to get out and stronger.  In fact, I saw quite a few surfers just turn away.  But, a) I had my spiffy new Harbour Electric with me (though not the board for the day at all) [...]

Driving back from El Porto yesterday, I was spent.  After a full week fighting the big surf at Huntington, I though I’d give my arms the weekend off.  But Fate thought differently. I got a call from Harbour indicating that my new board, Electric, was in and ready for pickup.  (Full post for the electric [...]

I’m still jazzed about the photos I took at El Porto yesterday.  Now, I may be stretching the “Surf Films” category a bit here, but there were so many awesome Josh pics from yesterday that I threw together the choice images and laid a pumping surf soundtrack behind them.  What you are seeing is Josh [...]